Getting the right scroll saw blades for metal cutting can be the bit of a headache if you're utilized to just catching whatever's on the shelf for your standard wood tasks. Most people think about the scroll saw as a tool strictly for birdhouses or intricate plywood fretwork, but it's actually a powerhouse for thin metalwork if you've got the proper setup. I actually remember the 1st time We tried to cut a piece associated with copper sheet along with a standard wood blade; it wasn't pretty. The cutter jumped, the metal bent, and I actually ended up snapping the teeth off inside seconds.
If you want to move further than wood and begin operating with brass, real estate agent, aluminum, or also thin mild steel, you have to change your mindset concerning the cutter. It's not only about "sharpness"—it's in regards to the tooth count, the temper of the metal, and how you manage the high temperature. Let's enter into the weeds of what actually works so you don't waste money on a pack of blades that'll simply end up in the scrap bin.
The Secret is within the TPI
When you're looking for scroll saw blades for metal cutting, the most important number on the package could be the TPI, or teeth per inch. With wooden, you might use something with 10-15 teeth per inches to get a fast, aggressive cut. If you try out that with metal, the teeth can catch on the edge of the materials and either flex the metal or even snap the cutter instantly.
The golden rule for metal may be the "three-tooth rule. " You want at least three teeth in contact with the thickness from the metal at all times. Because most metal utilized on the scroll saw will be quite thin—think 18 to 24 gauge—you need a quite high TPI. We're talking any where from thirty to 80 the teeth per inch. These blades look almost smooth to the nude eye, but they're designed to "nibble" away at the metal rather compared to "bite" in it.
Jeweler's Blades compared to. Standard Metal Blades
You'll often see blades tagged specifically for "metal, " however you ought to also keep an eye out for jeweler's piercing blades . These are basically high-end scroll saw blades for metal cutting that are usually used by craftsmen and goldsmiths. They are available in a different dimensions scale, usually varying from 8/0 (the finest) to fourteen (the coarsest).
For most hobbyist work, a #0, #1, or #2 jeweler's blade is a great center ground. They're made of hardened steel and can deal with non-ferrous metals like a dream. The main difference is that jeweler's blades are usually "plain end" (no pins), so you'll need a scroll saw that accepts plain-end blades. If your saw only takes pin-end blades, your options for metal cutting are heading to be much more limited, and a person might find it tough to get the high TPI essential for thin sheets.
Don't Overlook the Lubrication
One thing that catches people away guard is exactly how fast metal creates heat. When you're cutting wood, the sawdust actually helps dissipate some of that heat. Along with metal, there's nowhere for the heat to go yet into the knife. If the blade gets too hot, it loses its temper, becomes soft, and the teeth boring in seconds.
I always maintain a stick associated with cutter lubricant or even simply a vintage beeswax candlestick nearby. Every couple of inches of cutting, just touch the blade in order to the wax. This keeps things awesome and helps the blade slide through the metal without "loading up. " If you don't have wax, a bit of painter's tape within the cut line can occasionally help, but nothing at all beats a devoted lubricant. This might sound like an extra phase you'd want to skip, but it'll triple the living of your cutter.
The "Sandwich" Method
It is a trick that saved me a lot of frustration. In the event that you're working with actually thin metal—like shim stock or slim brass—it has a tendency to vibrate or "chatter" towards the table. This chatter is the number 1 cause associated with broken scroll saw blades for metal cutting.
To fix this particular, try sandwiching your metal between two bits of thin plywood or also some heavy cardstock. Use some spray adhesive or double-sided tape to stick the metal to a piece of 1/8-inch Baltic birch plywood, plus maybe put another layer at the top. After that, you just saw through the entire "sandwich. " The particular wood supports the particular metal, prevents this from bending, and keeps the cutter from vibrating. Plus, it offers the knife a little bit of natural reduction in friction from your wood resins.
Speed Configurations and Tension
It's tempting in order to crank the saw up to full velocity to do a great job faster, yet that's a formula for disaster along with metal. When using scroll saw blades for metal cutting, you want in order to halt your saw down . If you have an adjustable speed saw, transform it down to regarding half or even a 3rd of its greatest extent speed.
A slower speed reduces heat and provides you more handle. You aren't within a race. Metal cutting is a gradual, deliberate process. In case you push as well hard, you'll simply break the knife. Let the tooth the actual work.
As for tension, you want it tight. A metal-cutting blade should give you the high-pitched "ping" whenever you pluck it. Because the tooth are so small, any flex within the blade will cause it to wander or join, and since metal isn't as forgiving as wood, a binding blade generally results in a snap.
Which Metals Can You Really Cut?
Not really all metals are created equal. Scroll saws are fantastic for non-ferrous metals . Including: * Copper: Very soft and straightforward to cut, but it could be "gummy, " so make use of plenty of wax. * Brass: Probably the favorite for scroll sawers. It cuts cleanly and leaves a beautiful edge. * Aluminum: Easy to cut but clogs blades rapidly. * Silver/Gold: Cuts like butter with jeweler's blades.
When it comes to steel , you have to be careful. You can cut thin, moderate steel, but this will wear away your blades considerably faster. Avoid metal steel or hardened steels; they're generally tougher than the particular blade itself, plus you'll just finish up grinding the particular teeth off without having making a dent.
Safety Initial
Cutting metal produces tiny, razor-sharp slivers instead associated with soft sawdust. These types of little metal shards can get all over the place. I highly suggest wearing safety glasses (obviously) yet also being conscious of your fingers. Those tiny burrs on the advantage from the cut metal can slice a person open before a person even realize this.
Furthermore, consider your dust collection. While wooden dust is a breathing in hazard, metal "dust" is heavy and can be hard on your saw's internal components if it gets to the motor or maybe the bellows. A quick vacuum-up after a session is an excellent habit in order to get into.
Final Thoughts
Using scroll saw blades for metal cutting opens up an entire new world of task possibilities. You can start making custom jewelry, complex brass inlays for your furniture, or even even metal components for scale models. It takes the bit of persistence and a switch in technique compared to woodworking, yet the results are usually worth it.
Keep in mind: keep the particular TPI high, keep the speed low, use plenty of wax, and don't be afraid to make use of the sandwich method for those sensitive pieces. When you get the hang of the rhythm, you'll discover that metal isn't nearly as intimidating since it seems. Happy sawing!